Climbing — Tim Casasola

Originally published on my newsletter Unsend It.

Me on Once Upon a Time (video). Isamer doing a solid job spotting me. I loved this climb. Not exactly everyone’s definition of a good day 🤣

You ever climb outside and spend the whole time at the strongest climber’s proj? “Yeah, we just spent the whole day at Dan’s V9 proj. Really wished I got to try more stuff.”

Or maybe you showed your friends around at a crag you always visit. You’re stoked for them to love the crag as much as you do. They do a bunch of climbing. Then sunset hits. And you’re like “damn! I didn’t get to try my project.”

Lately, I’m reminded that everyone’s definition of a good day is different. And that everyone can have a good day if we talk about what our good days look like.

So when I’m climbing with friends, I’ll ask on the drive/hike up:

What do you want to get out of today?
Any specific goals you have?

I want everyone in the group to know what each individual is looking to get out of the day. That way, we all can make space for what each person wants to do. And, if you tend to be a people pleaser, you have a space to advocate for what you want.

Everyone’s definition of a good day is different! Some people want to spend most of their energy on their project — they don’t need to try easier routes. Others want to do more volume and less redpointing. That one wild friend wants to try that insane highball to feel somethin’. And your chill friend wants to do 1-2 5.9s and enjoy a beer afterward.

If we talk about what we want to get out of the day, we can get what we want out of it! And if we don’t talk about it… chances are someone in the group won’t have as good of a day.

Upfront communication. Simple, but not easy.

Upfront communication helps in all disciplines of climbing

This type of upfront communication helps whether we’re going bouldering, sport climbing, cragging (single-pitch trad), or multi-pitching.

Think about how much upfront communication bigwall climbers do. If they plan to climb The Nose (their goal), they discuss:

the hike in
how they want to climb it
which routes they want to free vs which they want to aid
who’s leading Changing Corners and Great Roof (the crux pitches)
whether they want to work the crux pitches before attempting The Nose
how they plan to descend

I’ve yet to do my first bigwall, so I’m sure I’m missing a ton of other bullet points bigwall climbers talk about.

Of course, some communication and decision-making take place in real time. “You want to lead this pitch?”

But my point is: If bigwall climbers do a ton of upfront communication, we shouldn’t feel silly about talking about our hopes for the day at the crag.

Ask your longtime climbing partner what their good day looks like

I used to think that the more I've climbed with you, the less we need to communicate. I've changed my mind about this.

My climbing partner Joe and I have bouldered a ton together at Black Mountain and still discuss our hopes for the day on the car ride. Cuz we both care about each other having a good day. I’ve known Joe for a long time and can intuit what a good day looks like but I still ask.

The more I've climbed with you, the more we need to communicate. Our goals are always changing, evolving, and growing. We stay in good communication as we grow to continue to support each other's growth.

Accommodating for everyone’s good day changes the default script in climbing

I’m critical that the default script in climbing that it’s always about pushing to the next grade. You Must Always Achieve The Next Level™️. Yes, this is motivating. But climbing doesn’t always have to be about linear progression.

You can crush, you can cruise, you can be big or small — and that’s all okay in climbing.

If we talk about our good days upfront and accommodate, we normalize different ways of progressing. One person can send a grade they’ve never sent before, another can send a bunch of moderates at their level, another can climb for the first time, and another can just enjoy a beer at the crag. Everyone had their definition of a good day. We’re normalizing difference, rather than a single way of doing this sport. And I think that’s super healthy for this sport because it challenges the default script of always crushing, always pushing, always sending harder, you’re never going to be strong enough. Blah blah blah.

🧗🏾‍♂️🧗🏽‍♀️🧗🏾‍♂️

Upfront communication. Simple, but not easy.

As climbers, it’s something we’ll be practicing for as long as we do this sport.

On your next trip, ask your friends in the car ride or the parking lot:

What do you want to get out of today?
Any specific goals you have?⠀

Make a rough plan based on that.

Then enjoy your day.